20 Annotations

First Reading

David Quidnunc  •  Link

Rural clothing -- pictures

Men, women, children, soldiers, a clergyman.
From the "Living History Village of Little Woodham" site.

WKW  •  Link

Entry annotations for 1 January and 2 February 1660 have comments on men's dress by Susanna, including her valuable link to illustrations of men's and women's fashions of this entire cnetury, reposted by Sharon on 1 May 1660:


vicenzo  •  Link

best whites : MECHANICALL ARTS.- Cloathing. [See also subsequent chapters on this
subject] At Salisbury the best whites of England are made. The city
was ever also famous for the manufactures of parchment, razors,
cizers, knives, and gloves. Salisbury mault is accounted the best
mault, and they drive there a very considerable trade in maulting.
Also it is not to be forgotten that the bottle ale of Salisbury (as
likewise Wilton, upon the same reason, sc. the nitrous water) is the
best bottle ale of this nation.

JOHN AUBREY Release Date: January, 2004 [EBook #4934]


TerryF  •  Link

Of Men & Their Elegance
"The Baroque man was grand and used many subterfuges to convey maximum height; he was perched on high-heeled shoes, wore a narrow, fitted, knee-length coat, and on his head was a tall, full wig of natural hair, which only the very wealthy could afford. As much a symbol of class as clothing, the introduction of this 'periwig' was gradual and long lived. Reacting against sterner days, the beribboned and bowed dress style caused quite a stir. In a passage from The Life and Times of Anthony Wood dated 1663, the author described it as 'a strange effeminate age when men strive to imitate women in their apparel, viz. long periwigs, patches in their faces, painting, short wide breeches like petticoats, muffs, and their clothes highly scented, bedecked with ribbons of all colours.' " Further narrative with images: http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhib…

Bradford  •  Link

Book on clothes during Pepys's era:

“Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England” by Aileen Ribeiro, Yale, 387pp.
Reviewed by Ann Pasternak Slater in the 29 April 2006 "Guardian Review":


"Aileen Ribeiro's sumptuous book covers fashion from 1603-1714, the reign of six monarchs and the Cromwellian interregnum. It is indefatigably embellished with minute detail."

"Petticoat breeches were generously garnished with bunches of ribbons at waist and knee. In the 1650s a Kentish Parliamentarian bought 72 yards of ribbon for one suit and 108 yards for another. One illustration shows a cream figured silk suit shapelessly trimmed with 218 yards of banana-bunch ribbons. . . . A friend of Pepys spent an entire day with both legs down one half of his fashionably wide petticoat breeches, never noticing his mistake."

"With Van Dyck's classicizing influence came rich but vaguely draped court portraits." [Recall Elizabeth's now-destroyed likeness by Hayls, with its loosely-anchored frontage. And might this be applicable to E. and Ashwell?] "After the 1650s there was little perceptible difference between the dress of a gentlewoman and her maid."
In all, it sounds intruiging; and Yale books are always produced to the highest visual standards.

dirk  •  Link

17th c costume

“Two Centuries of Costume in America”, Vol. 1 (1620-1820), by Alice Morse Earle, ca.1900
[A real treasure trove for 17th c costume!]


Second Reading

Terry Foreman  •  Link

Following David Quidnunc: Within the parish of Rowner, Hampshire, surrounded by woodland, lies the 17th century village of Little Woodham. A visit here will allow you to step inside the pages of history books; to open the doors of real homes and immerse yourself in everyday life in a small "living history"' village. http://www.littlewoodham.org.uk/

San Diego Sarah  •  Link

Pockets ... in-seam pockets have apparently been around from at least the 15th century.

An excellent thesis on the subject:

One detail I found provocative was the use of the codpiece as a pocket.

The paragraph I thought Pepsians would like was about the content of sailors' pockets on the Mary Rose when she sank in 1545:

"The proximity of a pocket to the body not only implies a potential emotional attachment to its contents, but references to what people stored in their pockets also provide a sense of what they believed to be important or necessary to carry on their person at that time. This can be seen in the archaeological remains found on the Mary Rose. Although many objects were moved by the sea or have been lost, the separation between items which were stored away in chests and those which were found next to bodies indicates differing priorities for objects — what was wanted on the body or close at hand during the working day? Books, dice and money had been stowed away in chests, whereas rosaries and paternosters were found on bodies. Some items were located both in chests and on people's persons, such as knives, combs and pocket sundials, with one comb being found in the lining of a jerkin in what is thought to have been a pocket, showing a sense of individual choice and agency."

Third Reading

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