Daily entries from the 17th century London diary
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Saffron Walden is a small market town in the Uttlesford district of Essex, England. It is located 12 miles (19 km) north of Bishop's Stortford, 15 miles (24 km) south of Cambridge and approx 35 miles (56 km) north of London. The town retains a picturesque, rural appearance and many very old buildings dating from the medieval period onwards. In 2001 the parish had a population of 15,095 although this has increased marginally since then.
There has been a village on or near the site of present day Saffron Walden since before the Roman occupation of Britain, when Bronze and Iron Age tribes settled in the area. After the Romans withdrew from the country, a flourishing Anglo-Saxon town was established.
With the Norman invasion of 1066, a stone church was built. The castle was constructed c.1116. A Priory, later to become Walden Abbey, was also founded under the patronage of Geoffrey de Mandeville, first Earl of Essex around 1136. The abbey was separated from the town of Walden by Holywell Field, which was enclosed in the sixteenth century to form part of the park of Audley End, the house of Sir Thomas Audley, who converted the abbey cloisters to a dwelling c. 1538-44. The inner or Little Court of the seventeenth-century house corresponds to one of the cloisters.
In 1141 the area’s market was transferred to the town from nearby Newport, further increasing the area’s influence. The town’s first charter was granted in 1300. This early town was known as Chipping Walden. The town was at first largely confined to the castle's outer bailey, but in the 13th century the Battle or Repell Ditches were built or extended, to enclose a new larger area to the south. The focus of the town moved southwards to Market Square.
In the medieval period the primary trade in Saffron Walden was in wool. However, in the 16th century and 17th century the saffron crocus (crocus sativus) became widely grown in the area. The flower was precious, as extract from the stigmas, the saffron, was used in medicines, as a condiment, as a perfume, as an aphrodisiac, and as an expensive yellow dye. This industry gave its name to the town and Chipping Walden became Saffron Walden.
By the end of the 18th century the saffron flower was no longer in such demand, and the flower was replaced by malt and barley. In the 1830s there were more than 30 maltings and breweries running. Although this trade was not so rewarding as the saffron, the town continued to grow throughout the 19th century, having a cattle market and building a library and other civic buildings. During this time Quakers became very active in Saffron Walden, the most influential family being the Gibsons, who aided in the construction of several buildings that remain today, such as the museum [1] and the Town Hall.
The 1900s saw expansion of the Saffron Walden branch railway line that extended from Audley End, on the mainline from london to Cambridge, to Bartlow. This closed with the Beeching cuts in the 1960s. Some light industrial areas to the east, in particular Acrow Ltd, makes of falsework and the south of the town were added to diversify the employment. In the 1980s major expansion of housing estates to the south expanded the housing stock significantly.
Today, Saffron Walden is a flourishing, beautiful and historic town. Because it has never been sacked or destroyed by fire, many of the buildings, streets and features, especially in the centre of town, date back centuries. Although the 1900s brought many changes and expansion, the character of the town and the valley in which it sits remains strongly intact.
Saffron Walden did not have an official coat of arms until 1960. Until that date an unofficial coat of arms was used. It is not certain when these arms were first used, although they are engraved on the large mace given to the town in 1685. These arms show the Saffron Crocus within the walls of the castle. They are intended as an heraldic pun - "Saffron walled-in".
In 1961 the Borough Council applied to the College of Arms for a formal coat of arms, which was granted by Letters patent. Following the Local Government reorganisation of 1974 these arms were adapted by the addition of mantling and today, form the official arms of Saffron Walden Town Council.
The official armorial description is:-
Saffron Walden is home to the largest parish church in Essex. St. Mary the Virgin dates mainly from the end of the 15th century, when the previously existing and smaller church was extensively rebuilt in flint. In 1769 it was damaged by lightning and the repairs, carried out in the 1790s, removed many of the medieval features. The present spire was added in 1832 to replace an older ‘lantern’ tower. The church is 183 feet (56 m) long and the spire 193 feet (59 m) high, and is the tallest in Essex.
Saffron Walden also features the ruins of the 12th century Walden Castle, which is thought to have been built by Geoffrey de Mandeville, the Second Earl of Essex. After the medieval period, the castle fell slowly into disuse and much of the flint was taken and used in the construction of local houses. All that remains today is the ruined basement.
Nearby to the castle is the Maze, a series of circular excavations cut into the turf of the common. It is the largest turf maze in England, the main part being about 100 feet (30 m) in diameter. The earliest record of it was in 1699, and it has been extensively restored several times, most recently in 1979.
There is also a hedge maze in nearby Bridge End Gardens. The garden, which lies off Castle Street and Bridge Street, dates from the 1840s and was originally laid out by Francis Gibson, a member of the locally well-known Gibson family who were eminent Quakers, bankers and brewers. Close to the Bridge End Gardens is the Fry Art Gallery which exhibits the work of artists who had an association with Saffron Walden and north west Essex. One artist of note included in the Fry Art Gallery collection is Edward Bawden who lived in the town during the 1970s and 80s.
Nearby is the Anglo American playing fields and monument to commemorate the American airmen and people of Saffron Walden borough that died in the 2nd world war. [2]
Another tourist attraction is Audley End, a manor house built by the Earl of Suffolk in the seventeenth century on the site of the medieval Walden Abbey, which had been rebuilt by Sir Thomas Audley. When first constructed, the house was one of the largest in England. However, two thirds of it was later demolished when it was found to be difficult to maintain. The house and gardens are now owned by English Heritage and are open to the public. During the summer months; several concerts which help make up the BBC Proms are held here. It is usually an evening of music varying from classical to rock to jazz followed by a fireworks display. Another annual fireworks display is held on the Saturday nearest to the 5th November. This event is organised by the Round Table and is held on the common - near the maze.
Nearby Audley End is the Audley End Miniature Railway, which is a 10 ¼" gauge railway ride through woodland. The ride is 1.5 miles long and has been part of the Saffron Walden landscape since it was opened in 1964. It is a popular site with children.
Saffron Walden is home to one of the finest quality concrete skate parks in Europe, One Minet Park, built by US company Dreamland.
Other sites include the Corn Exchange (now a library) and the market square around which a number of buildings of historical interest and the Town Hall are centred. Market Days are Tuesdays and Saturdays.
The town is administered by Saffron Walden Town Council, a council of 15 members. It is currently controlled by the Conservative Party. The town's mayor is Councillor Mike Hibbs. The youngest Councillor ever elected to the council was David-James Sadler at 21yrs old.[1]. Both in the town and the surrounding district of Uttlesford, the Liberal Democrats are the major opposition party.
The town is divided into three wards: Audley (named after Audley End house) represents the west area of Saffron Walden including the village of Audley End; Castle takes its name from Saffron Walden Castle and represents the north area of Saffron Walden, the village of Little Walden and the large rural areas north of the Town; Shire (formerly Plantation) represents the southern part of Saffron Walden. Sewards End was once a ward, but it has recently become its own Parish.
The ceremonial Maces are derived from weapons of war. Today's ceremonial Maces are a highly ornamental successor to the prehistoric club or bludgeon.
The Mace was adopted as a special weapon of the Serjeants-at-Arms appointed first by Philip II of France (1180-1223) to protect him from suspected assassins when he returned to France. A similar bodyguard was instituted by Richard I of England. Curiously the Mace was also the particular weapon of a Bishop or Churchman when he took the field in war. Apparently the argument was that whilst it was not considered appropriate for a man of God to shed another person's blood with a sword or battle axe, to crack his skull was permitted.
Over time, the officers allowed to attend on Sheriffs, Bailiffs and Mayors gradually became less of an armed personal bodyguard, and more a Messenger to convey the Royal orders to local authorities; so the Mace with Royal Arms inscribed on it which he carried became the obvious and visible token of Royal authority.
In the course of time, the hitting end of the Mace fell out of use and the handle end increased in importance. This end became highly decorated and the Maces became no longer an offensive weapon but a symbol of authority. Today's ceremonial Maces are therefore now carried, so to speak, upside down.
The Large Mace was given to Saffron Walden by James II in 1685. The mace, which is made of silver gilt is approximately 4 feet. Around its head are the symbols of the four constituent countries of the British Isles; the rose of England, the thistle of Scotland, the harp of Wales and the tricorn of Ireland. On the main stem are engraved the coat of Arms of the town as they existed in 1685.
The Mace is carried in front of the Mayor on all ceremonial occasions by the Town's macebearer. The present macebearer is Mark Gilbert.
The two small maces are made of silver, measure approx. 9 inches and weigh about 2lbs. each. The maces were purchased by the Corporation in 1549 to commemorate in that year the granting to the town of a new charter by Edward VI. The purchase of the maces is recorded in the Guild of Holy Trinity Accounts and reads:-
"For 2 new maces, weying 18 ownces one quarter and half at 8s. the ownce 71.7s"
The two small macebearers used to be carried by the Sergeant-at Arms, but during the last war this tradition ceased. The maces are kept on view in the town's museum.
Saffron Walden is the name of a hymn tune, often associated with the hymn Just as I am. It was written by Arthur Henry Brown (1830-1926) from Essex.[2][3] He wrote many hymn tunes, which he often named after his favourite places, but there is no recorded reason for his naming of this tune.
Saffron Walden is referred to in a Blackadder sketch, and by Lawrence Durrell in Scobie's Common Usage of his novel "Balthazar" (1958): "Saffron Walden, meaning 'male brothel', ex.: 'He was caught in a Saffron Walden, old man, covered in jam.'"
Evelyn describes Audley End
On 1 September 1654, John Evelyn and his wife, Mary, visited Cambridge and, as Pepys did in February 1660, went to Saffron Walden and stopped at Audley End. Part of Evelyn’s diary entry for that crowded day (the couple also toured Cambridge University):
“From Chambridge we went to Audley End and spent some time in seeing that goodly Palace built by Howard E[arl]. of Suffolck, & once Lord Treasurer of England: It is a mixt fabric, ‘twixt antique & modern, but observable for its being compleately finish’d, & without comparison one of the statliest Palaces of the Kingdome, consisting of two Courts, the first very large, Wingd with Cloisters: The front hath a double Entrance: The Hall is faire, but somewhat too smale for so august a pile: The Kitchin leaded & Cellars very large & arched with stone, Celars I never saw any so neate & well dispos’d: These Offices are joynd by a Wing out of the way very handsomely: The Gallery is the most cherefull, & I thinke one of the best in England: a faire dining-roome, & the rest of the Lodgings answerable with a pretty Chapell: The Gardens are not in order, though well inclosed: It has also a Bowling ally, a nobly well walled, wooded & watred Park, full of fine collines [a French word meaning ‘small hills’] and ponds, the river glides before the Palace, to which an avenue of lime-trees; but all this much diminishd by its being placed in an obscure bottome; for the rest a perfectly uniforme structure, & shewes without like a diademe, by the decorations of the Cupolas & other ornaments on the Pavilions: I observ’d that instead of railes and balusters, there is a bordure of Capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolck house neere Charing Crosse, built by the same L: Tress: [“Lord Treasurer”?] This house stands in the Parish of Saffron Walden famous for he aboundance of Saffron there Cultivated and esteem’d the best of any forraine Country.”
Then, as Pepys did in 1660, Evelyn went south through Bishop’s Stortford (“a pretty watrd Towne”) to London and home.
Audley End House. There
route Safron Walden to London :
Look at the great mile markers of the day; it also outlines villages the road takes.
http://www.milestonesonline.co.uk/essex3.htm
Audley end house 1669 from Count Magalotti
http://www.building-history.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/Primary/Magalotti/Audley.htm
Still a White hart in the area close to Audley End and Saffron Walden at Wimbish/Howletts end.
White Hart High Street, Debden
Saffron Walden , Essex CB11 3LE howlett end
White Hart (Map)
Thaxted Road, Wimbish, Saffron Walden, Essex, England.
http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?client=public&X=557500&Y=235000&width=700&height=400&gride=558153&gridn=234787&srec=0&coordsys=gb&db=&addr1=&addr2=&addr3=&pc=CB102UZ&advanced=&local=&localinfosel=&kw=&inmap=&table=&ovtype=&zm=1&scale=100000
audley end house http://www.multimap.com/map/browse.cgi?client=public&X=552500&Y=235000&width=700&height=400&gride=558153&gridn=234787&srec=0&coordsys=gb&db=&addr1=&addr2=&addr3=&pc=CB102UZ&advanced=&local=&localinfosel=&kw=&inmap=&table=&ovtype=&zm=0&scale=50000&multimap.x=359&multimap.y=197
Audley End as noted by Daniel Defoe (1660-1731) in around 1722.
I came back through the west part of the county of
Essex, and at Saffron Walden I saw the ruins of the once largest
and most magnificent pile in all this part of England—viz., Audley
End—built by, and decaying with, the noble Dukes and Earls of
Suffolk.
pic of a 17c Pub with historic past.
Saffron Walden Sun Inn from Cromwells period.
http://www.totaltravel.co.uk/photographer/Gordon-Ridgewell/saffron-walden/Saffron-Walden-old-sun-inn/
Saffron Walden is a market town steeped in history - many of the old …
Oliver Cromwell is believed to have stayed at the 14th century Sun Inn on the …
pix and story outline:
http://www.thisisessex.co.uk/essex/local_interest/towns__villages/saffronwalden.html
History story of town
Audley End by Fienes: a quote on Audley end house a place enjoyed by Lord Braybooke :
“…Thence we went to Andleyend 10 miles, a house of ye Earle of Sussex wch makes a Noble appearance Like a town, so many towers and buildings off stone within a parke wch is walled round. A good River runs through it, we pass over the bridge. Its built round 3 Courts, there are 30 great and Little towers on the top, and a great Cupilow in the Middle. The roomes are Large and Lofty with good Rich old ffurniture tapistry, but Noe beds in yt part we saw. There are 750 (150?) Roomes in the house. …”
http://www.visionofbritain.org.uk/text/chap_page.jsp?t_id=Fiennes&c_id=12&cpub_id=0